We finally managed to pull ourselves away from Tan-Tan Plage on the 12th and headed back up the N1 road to Guelmim, but before that we had……
Tracy’s Birthday 11/02/2015
This was spent in the exotic but tired resort of Tan-Tan Plage. A place we have spoken of before, so instead I will as best as I can remember describe the events of the day. I was up at first light for a desperate dash to the patisserie for Pain Au Chocolate, these to be served in bed. Now these yeast, leavened dough based niceties can cost a pretty penny back in Blighty, but here they are 10p, freshly warmed from the oven. However, there are a couple of drawbacks, only two of the four purchased yummies had chocolate within, and one was picked up from the floor with a wry grin and slight Berber shrug before being lobbed in the warming oven. I took special care to note the dropped one and made a large imprint with my thumb to ensure Tracy got the special selection on her birthday. I finished off her breakfast delivered in bed with freshly squeezed orange and Nespresso coffee.
Next stop was a first for Tracy, going in the sea for her Birthday. So with the temperatures in the low 20’s and a slightly cooling West Sou’Wester we packed up the wind break, drinks and snarks and went beach ward. Unfortunately I forgot the camera and so we unable to record the fact. So imagine, apart from a surfboard erect in the sand some distance off we were the only people there. We even managed a paddle.
For the evening I checked out what looked a half reasonable place to dine, the campsite café next door. Checking the menu it looked all the favourites were available, Tajines, Omelettes, kebabs. Chuffed with my find I told Tracy to get here glad rags on, we were off OUT OUT. There were some other notices on the window I presume were in French, but I chose to Ignore the Latin based paraphernalia.
When we bowled in for dinner we were quietly surprised to see the place set up in rows of long tables occupied by the Latin based speakers and scoffing Pizza. Also noticed out of the corner of one’s eye could be seen an ancient HiFi contraption.
We asked if we could have Tajines and were told we could be accommodated if we could wait 30 mins, which we duly obliged. Two hours and two bottles of cheap Spanish red later a tardy terracotta sourced meal arrived. Also during this time the primeval Stereo had burst into life at the hands of a Gallic Dave lee Travis and the previously seated French had now formed into rows and were non-stop line dancing to everything from Edith Piaff to YMCA. I even joined in for a swift Macarena. A good time was had.
Homie Help: In the less populated areas of Morocco there is a dearth of Supermarkets as we know them, they are more Ronnie Barker Open All Hours affairs. One thing missing from display is butter, Stork like Margarine aplenty but no butter. After looking in every shop and exasperated I relented and asked, ‘Beurre’? At which point the chap looked around and pulled a block of the stuff from out under the counter in a very 1980’s video shop way. We still can’t understand why. We have tried to smoke it, sniff it and failed badly trying to get into a syringe but still do not comprehend why to purchase butter you have to approach the counter and with an exaggerated Frankie Howardesque wink, utter the word, ‘Beurre’. Not using the ‘Le’ prefix gives it more mystery in our opinion.
Tan-Tan to Guelmim 12/02/2015
This is the return of the journey we made previously and so not much to say. It is packed with glorious views along its entire length. Sadly the devastating floods from last November have taken their toll and the surface is quite badly broken. Too add to the terror nobody has informed the taxi drivers who just take to the desert to overtake if the tarmac is not the required width. This action results in a mini dust storm. An example of the scenery here:
We parked up at a campsite within an Oasis just outside Guelmim for the evening. The campsite was Bijou in character but ran by an extremely welcoming family who gave their home to you. Details as ever on the Routes. Here is a picture from the roof.
One thing we have noticed here in particular is the way Motorhomers’ park. When they turn up they look around like an overactive Meerkat, for why I have no idea. The next thought is; the people here must have the best spot. So, without fail, even in a site with no one else there they will park right next to you, in your place, and block your sun. Why?
Guelmim to Mirleft 13/02/2015
Another great Drive. The video is on the map within the routes section, but if you are feeling a bit lazy here is the Link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4EFTgx05UM
First stop was the newly opened Marjane Supermarket for provisions. We plan to spend a couple of weeks on the beach before we head off into the desert and then turn to make our slow journey back to the UK in time for the Beanie Baby arrival.
The road between Sidi Ifni and Guelmim was washed away by the November Floods and it is quite remarkable to see the effort that has been put in by the authorities to make the journey possible. There was not a single bridge left intact over a fifty mile journey and the devastation caused is here for all to see. The town of Sidi Ifni appears to have been very badly damaged with debris still piled high on the sides of roads and buildings derelict. Even the Zoo perished. But the people are still outwardly cheerful. A big hats off to them. We are staying at the best campsite by a long chalk we have been in for a long time and second only to Turiscampo ever.
Picture from the roof of the restaurant.
Camping Erkounte Park, Mirleft 14/02 – 15/02/2015
We are nicely entrenched on this wonderful campsite that sits upon a cliff just south of Mirleft, a small and insignificant place which in turn is South of Tiznit. First night we eat in the on-site restaurant, Tracy grilled fish, myself Kofte Tajine with eggs. Including salad, bread and a couple of softies the bill came to a staggering £8. And it was bloody tasty let me assure you. We will be eating here again.
Ah, almost forgot, we have decided to give up alcohol until the 30th March and today is day 4. It is for health reasons and not some sort oblique religious belief. Our observations are the motorhoming fraternity consume too much and are generally an unhealthy lot and we didn’t want to join in any longer.
I wanted to track this in our own version of SpringWatch, the highly regarded annual BBC epic fronted by ‘Lisping’ Chris Packham and an every increasing strange bunch of sidekicks. What ever happened to Oddie? A man I saw once on a train to Liverpool where he spent the entire 2 Hours 32 Minutes with his head ‘glued’ to the window. One eye looking out, one looking in, and neither blinking, not once. Undoubtedly the best impression of a Heron I have ever seen. My take was called TummyWatch and consisted of Tracy taking a picture of my stomach with a tape measure wrapped around. Thus allowing us to see the progress of my decreasing alcohol inspired girth disappear. Tracy said no.
We went for a good long walk today, around the cliffs and across the beach and there are some pictures below. It is very reminiscent of North Devon/Cornwall here but, without the crowds and the addition of many more Cacti. All enhanced by endless sunshine and the ever present singing of Larks. Special place.
That’s all for now.
Take care, Love to all
E & T